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TIBETAN MARCHES

ANDRÉ MIGOT

INTRODUTION

 It is unlikely (but only because it is scarcely possible) that the Western traveler will ever be denied access to wider areas of the continent of Asia than he is today. By “traveler” I mean what the word means; I do not mean the fraternal delegate or the official guest who is privileged to spend an afternoon in a cotton-mill outside Tashkent or is given, from the aircraft which bears him from one cultural gabfest to the next, a glimpse of the Great Wall of China. These, though they may be classed as passengers, are really freight; as little masters of their destinies, as little able to see what really going on, as little (almost) exposed to any risk as the dormice which country-bred children still occasionally transport in boxes with perforated lids and which are at intervals extracted, bemused and somnolent, to be admired and touched with a gingerly forefinger by their masters `comrades before being put back in their conveyances.

By the end of the nineteenth century man`s questing spirit, backed by the knowledge and resources it had led him to acquire, had conquered almost all the physical obstacles and barriers which his planet had to offer. It was left to the twentieth century to throw up more artificial but more insurmountable barricades which quickly rendered obsolete and irrelevant such formerly useful items of equipment as curiosity, and courage, and the determination to go some- where because you have a strong but not always completely explicable wish to go there.

It follows that contemporary accounts of journeys in remote parts of Asia, or anyhow of East and Central Asia, have virtually ceased to appear; and it will certainly be many years, perhaps even many decades, before a citizen of the  Free World penetrates the regions which Dr. Migot de scribes, vividly but with great fidelity, in his this book.

CONTENTS

ONE: INTO CHINA

1.     Hanoi to Kunming

2.     The first stage

3.     A Chinese funeral

4.     Lorries and Lolos

5.     The opium racket

6.     The Holy mountain

7.     “Buddha’s Glory

TWO: A SLIGHT CASE OF BANDITRY

8.     Life in Chengtu

9.     Buddhism and visiting-cards

10.                        My amateur coolies

11.                        Robbery under arms

12.                        A grueling march

13.                        Pressing on regardless

THREE: THE GATEWAY TO TIBET

14.                        Tibetans in Kangting

15.                        Frontier troubles

16.                        Element of Buddhism

FOUR: CARAVANS AND LAMAS

17.                        Brick-tea and Tsampa

18.                        The spell of Jara

19.                        An alien world

20.                        Father fu

21.                        Night marches

FIVE: YAKS AND CORACLES

22.                        the Mecca of Sikang

23.                        the road to the north

24.                        The Holy valley

25.                        Printing and architecture

26.                        An agonising dilemma

SIX: MY INITITION

27.                        The barrier of the Yangtze

28.                        Transmission of strength

29.                        Captain ma

30.                        Midsummer festival

31.                        Dance of the Lamas

SEVEN: THE ATTEMPT ON LHASA

32.                        To be a pilgrim

33.                        Rough going

34.                        The long arm of the law

35.                        Enforced retreat

EIGHT: A CROSS MARKS THE SPOT

36.                        Homage to a hero

37.                        Rendezvous for Kokonor

38.                        The great grass desert

39.                        China once more

40.                        The blue lake

NINE: ACROSS INNER MONGOLIA

41.                         A Moslem capital

42.                        Lorries and quagmires

TEN: CAPTURED BY THE COMMUNISTS

43.                        Excursion to the tombs

44.                        Led away captive

45.                        Life in red China

46.                        Safe in Peking

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